This is not a "howto" as I couldn't get it to work. But if you want to know why, read on.
I've been using MatterControl instead of MakerBot for my CTC Bizer (Dual) for a while know and have been really satisfied with it. However, the best results (and control) I got with a direct USB connection.
Having a 2m-long USB cable dangling is not my style so I've searched for a solution.
There are several options here, but I've settled on ESP8266 (NodeMCU) and one of these projects:
https://github.com/jeelabs/esp-link
https://github.com/beckdac/ESP8266-transparent-bridge
https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D
So basically the ESP8266 acts as a server which then forwards everything to and from the hardware serial connection.
The first two projects work (probably) fine, but MatterControl has currently (Nov 2017) an issue with virtual serial ports. I've tried both com0com and VSPE. It runs fine for a few commands (2-5) and then it fails.
ESP3D does not support s3g/x3g printers.
OctoPI bundles everything in a neat package. Just stick a Raspberry PI, maybe with a webcam, and upload files directly to it. It takes care of slicing, monitoring, control, ...
However, it's excruciatingly slow (on rPI B+ and B2), printer profile is not correct (even when manually input), the slicer (Slic3r) outputs wrong commands. For example, the wrong extruder heater turns on.
If you cancel a print, you have to restart OctoPrint, which takes minutes.
I love tinkering, but this is just too much, I've sunk too many hours into it.
Same as the above TCP bridge, this time the bridge was set with netcat, stty and other magic commands. It did not work, for the same reasons as above.
I want to jump to this and just say not to try it. Unless MatterControl fixes their protocol (seems improbable) just stick a cable inside your computer or export to SD.
Upgrading the motherboard seems like a nice proposition, but the thermal sensors need to be exchanged as well, no easy task.
I'd say you are better off keeping this printer USB-bound and hunting for a cheap G-code one to convert to wireless. At this point (Nov 2017) the 3D printers have gone down quite a lot in price, can be found for 100$ sometimes.
I've been using MatterControl instead of MakerBot for my CTC Bizer (Dual) for a while know and have been really satisfied with it. However, the best results (and control) I got with a direct USB connection.
Having a 2m-long USB cable dangling is not my style so I've searched for a solution.
TCP-Serial bridge
There are several options here, but I've settled on ESP8266 (NodeMCU) and one of these projects:
https://github.com/jeelabs/esp-link
https://github.com/beckdac/ESP8266-transparent-bridge
https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D
So basically the ESP8266 acts as a server which then forwards everything to and from the hardware serial connection.
The first two projects work (probably) fine, but MatterControl has currently (Nov 2017) an issue with virtual serial ports. I've tried both com0com and VSPE. It runs fine for a few commands (2-5) and then it fails.
ESP3D does not support s3g/x3g printers.
OctoPI
OctoPI bundles everything in a neat package. Just stick a Raspberry PI, maybe with a webcam, and upload files directly to it. It takes care of slicing, monitoring, control, ...
However, it's excruciatingly slow (on rPI B+ and B2), printer profile is not correct (even when manually input), the slicer (Slic3r) outputs wrong commands. For example, the wrong extruder heater turns on.
If you cancel a print, you have to restart OctoPrint, which takes minutes.
I love tinkering, but this is just too much, I've sunk too many hours into it.
Raspberry PI bridge
Same as the above TCP bridge, this time the bridge was set with netcat, stty and other magic commands. It did not work, for the same reasons as above.
Quick conclusion
I want to jump to this and just say not to try it. Unless MatterControl fixes their protocol (seems improbable) just stick a cable inside your computer or export to SD.
Upgrading the motherboard seems like a nice proposition, but the thermal sensors need to be exchanged as well, no easy task.
I'd say you are better off keeping this printer USB-bound and hunting for a cheap G-code one to convert to wireless. At this point (Nov 2017) the 3D printers have gone down quite a lot in price, can be found for 100$ sometimes.
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