Hack Correlation

This is not a "howto" as I couldn't get it to work. But if you want to know why, read on. I've been using MatterControl instead of MakerBot for my CTC Bizer (Dual) for a while know and have been really satisfied with it. However, the best results (and control) I got with a direct USB connection. Having a 2m-long USB cable dangling is not my style so I've searched for a solution. TCP-Serial bridge There are several options here, but I've settled on ESP8266 (NodeMCU) and one of these projects: https://github.com/jeelabs/esp-link https://github.com/beckdac/ESP8266-transparent-bridge https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D So basically the ESP8266 acts as a server which then forwards everything to and from the hardware serial connection. The first two projects work (probably) fine, but MatterControl has currently (Nov 2017) an issue with virtual serial ports. I've tried both com0com and VSPE. It runs fine for a few commands (2-5) and then it fai...

This is just a quick post while I'm working on something bigger. I've tried to get a NodeMCU module to interface to the serial port on my CTC Dual/Bizer printer, which uses a Rev G(?) Mightboard motherboard. Unfortunately, the main serial port is not exposed, just UART1. The easiest way I've found to get to the TX/RX lines was to piggyback on the resistors just before the ATMega8U chip: The 8U is used as a serial to USB converter. 5V and ground can be picked up from the exposed UART header, pictured bottom middle: I tried to use the ESP3D firmware but it only works with boards that support G-Code, not X3G. So I abandoned the project due to lack of time. The pictures above are from a few weeks ago but just yesterday I managed to put a hole in my 8U chip, no idea how that happened: So now I was forced to use my makeshift serial connection. I tried both possible solutions: https://github.com/beckdac/ESP8266-transparent-bridge https://github.com/jee...

The apartment I'm renting is missing a key for the living room so I thought a nice experiment would be to try to print one of PLA. I already saw a talk at 32C3 that PLA has sufficient strength to actuate a lock without breaking. I took a photo of the lock and did some basic processing (in MS Paint) to make it easier for the https://keysforge.com website to parse it: I currently cannot get the website to work again but here is the key that was generated from the keyhole shot above: After a miniature print I realized it needed a 2x scaling. Some dremel work a bit later: The underside of the key was removed to make a 'tongue' that is able to catch the latch. Even though the print was done with 80% infill it still broke at the second twist, without ever opening the lock. The next tenant might be surprised to find a piece of PLA as I was surprised to find 5 1-cent coins inside: I already had a similar looking key, but with a mirrored pattern. Some m...

I've bought a CTC dual from ebay.de a couple of weeks ago, for significantly less than 400E, shipped from Germany. Here are my experiences with it, as a complete beginner. This will be a text-only post, if there is enough interest I will post some pictures and pictorial guides later. It's a FlashForge clone which is in itself a Replicator Dual (2X?) clone. It has a heated bed, dual extruder, wood panels and acceptable build quality and components. TL;DR version: - print simple objects no bigger than 5(W)x5(D)x2(H)cm if you want no issues - install a glass plate on top of the bed - use masking tape on the bed - experiment with temperatures for each new filament - install sailfish - pre-order 40mm cooling fans - install active cooling - cut polycarbonate covers to size to keep heat inside In the box The printer came pre-assembled, saving about one week of fiddling. It also came (mostly) calibrated, I just did a basic plate leveling, which might have not been nec...