Hack Correlation

I recently had to work with a home fiber router that was supplied by the ISP,  the FiberHome AN5506-02-F. Compared to the previous internet access solution, which was based on a cable modem and required the user to use their own router, the new solution has both advantages and disadvantages. The advantages would be: integrated WiFi, security and firewall. The disadvantages: only one LAN port available (@100Mbps), only 2.4GHz (@150Mbps), outdated software, locked-down interface, no easy way to expose a second router. The unit is very similar to the AN5506-04 model (  http://flytec.com.py/download/files/AN5506-04F-manual.pdf ), except it has only 2 UTP ports, only 1 phone port and no CATV interface. Exposing the inner router To get around the issue of the (old) router not being accessible from outside, the solution is to add that router into the DMZ setting. This is needed for things like web hosting, ftp server, some chat clients, torrents, etc. You can log in with ...

As mentioned in the previous post, I tried to set the curve opposite of that the 'tuning' units on the market do. So the reported fuel rail pressure would be higher, causing the ECU to decrease the rail pressure, and, hopefully, fuel consumption. After a long test test I can say that this is the way to go. Most numbers have been tweaked so that it would result in 15-20% lower pressure. For mostly highway driving the fuel consumption is now down to 6.28L/100km  7L/100km, with an average speed of 102kph (cruise control set for 130kph). For the same driving conditions, the factory result would be around 7.4-8L/%. This is corroborated by the fact that I was able to drive >1200km with a full tank. I don't have any numbers yet on city / heavy traffic consumption, it might be a different story. I don't know the long-term effects on neither reliability nor pollution, the injector nozzle spray pattern might not be suitable for such low pressures. TL;DR : >15% 6-...

I've been lagging on the project for a long time, but the issue was that the long-term results were not correlated with the initial test data. That, and the fact that I don't use my car that much. Each test requires at least 25L of fuel. Moreso, 25L (just above a quarter of my tank) is not enough to let the car calibrate its closed loop. Usually it requires a full tank and lots of driving, about 800km each test. It's hard to do a consistent driving cycle for that distance. My aggregated data shows that the circuit DECREASES mileage now, perhaps with about 10%.  And that is with settings almost identical to the ones used by RaceChip, a bit more aggressive. In other words, with a REPORTED LOWER rail pressure and ACTUAL HIGHER rail pressure the CONSUMPTION INCREASES by ~10%. I suspect that most of the people that report decreased consumption actually use on-board-computer data and do not perform precise measurements. So I've changed my strategy now, The reported (fak...

I will probably have to split this article into several parts, as I move along. In the initial article (see  http://hackcorrelation.blogspot.de/2017/01/ionik-cloud-hub.html ) I took a look at the hardware and started doing some basic hacking. However, I quickly ran into limitations and decided to try and port OpenWRT for the platform. There are quite a few steps and preparations needed to do this, however, this is for documentary purposes only. You don't need to do any of the stuff below (except backup), you can just flash my OpenWRT firmware and be none the wiser. However it might be useful if you want to port it to a new device, I could not find any tutorial about this. Step 0 - BACKUP In case everything blows up you will want to be able to restore everything to the factory condition. I first reset the root password to 'admin' by going to this link: http://10.10.10.254:8000/goform/SystemCommand?command=%2Fsbin%2Fchpasswd.sh+root+admin&SystemCommandSubmit=App...

Living close to a densely populated area means that it's hard to do consistent testing without spending a lot of fuel, which is also expensive. Nevertheless, I took the pen&paper approach and started working my way from the basics. I studied all the Bosch sensors from this page , used a bit of common sense and figured out that my sensor is a Bosch 0281002691, or similar, with a 180 MPa (26000 psi) nominal rating. This might be wrong but It's a good place to start. I've already used Torque and my multimeter to get some data and it seems to fit with the sensor I've chosen. It might be wrong, but so far it clicks into place. Using the data I've gathered I've created a simple JS page that shows some logs and tries to simulate what my module (and sensor) does: https://jsbin.com/goyavabuju/edit?html,output (Note that this is the HTML/JS result after I did the interpolation.) So the basic function is: the ECU commands the pump, this delivers a pressure...

My old post on the Saeco Talea Giro machine teardown  (including deprecated one ) has had tremendous success and I frequently get questions on how to fix this or that. I am no specialist on this stuff but I've managed to keep my unit running after it was used in an office environment (>50000 coffees). So for me it's mostly guesswork and some logic, but I'll display this so that you can help figure out the problem with your own unit. I'll try to make this accessible to non-technical people, let me know if some idioms are too advanced. I will try to update this guide with usual questions, but this is not a replacement for professional servicing. Before troubleshooting  make sure that the unit is  cleaned and descaled  and has enough water. Use the manual for this, each unit is different. Also, try turn the unit off and on, perhaps leaving it 1h undisturbed. This works around some of the bugs in software (firmware). Learn the sounds of the machine and try t...

I bought one of these cheap 'wireless drives' from Amazon:  https://www.amazon.de/I-ONIK-70752-i-onik-WIFI-Cloud/dp/B00I16C1K2/ Currently (early 2017) selling for 15E, I think I paid 12E including shipping. This post will focus on basic features and some early data. Later posts will go into some reverse-engineering, featuring a great YouTuber, LiveOverFlow . If you like reverse-engineering you will surely enjoy his tutorials. By the time you read this he will have probably published his first video showing you how to get into the device. He also discovered that a very similar device is being sold under the Strontium Mobile Wifi Cloud (Sri-CUBa-3KW) moniker in US and India. However that one is advertised as having a 3000mAh battery while this one only has a 1900mAh one. Edit The excelent video from  LiveOverFlow  is up:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FxE2ITDWsNE